The Secret to a Long-Lasting Driveway? It’s What You Can’t See

When you look at a brochure for a new driveway, you are naturally drawn to the finish. The sleek resin, the tumbled block paving, or the rustic gravel looks fantastic. But here is a hard truth that many "splash and dash" builders won't tell you:

The surface is just the icing on the cake. The sub-base is the cake.

If the foundation isn't right, it doesn't matter how expensive your paving blocks are. Within a year, they will sink, spread, and crack.

At DBG Projects, we are groundworks experts first and landscapers second. We know that the strength of a driveway comes from deep underground. Here is our guide to the "invisible engineering" that ensures your driveway withstands the weight of modern life.

1. Digging Deep (The Excavation)

A common trick to cut costs is to "skim" the top. Some builders will scrape off just the grass (turf) and throw some stone down.

The Problem: Topsoil is soft and contains organic matter that rots and shrinks over time. If you build on top of it, the driveway moves. The DBG Way: We excavate down to the "sub-grade"—usually removing at least 200mm–300mm of material. We keep digging until we hit solid ground (clay or rock) that is capable of bearing a load.

2. The Membrane (It’s Not Just for Weeds)

Once the ground is dug out, we lay a Geotextile Membrane. Many people think this is just to stop weeds coming through. While it helps, its primary job is separation.

The Science: Without a membrane, the heavy stone we put on top will slowly get pushed down into the wet clay below by the weight of your car, turning your foundation into mush. The membrane acts as a barrier, keeping your structural stone separate from the soft earth beneath.

3. The Sub-Base: MOT Type 1 vs. Type 3

You will often hear us talk about "MOT". This refers to the Ministry of Transport standards for crushed stone. We typically use two types, depending on your driveway choice:

• MOT Type 1 (The Strong & Solid): Used for non-permeable driveways (like standard block paving on sand). It contains a mix of big rocks and fine dust. When compacted, the dust fills the gaps, creating a rock-hard, impermeable layer.

• MOT Type 3 (The SUDS Specialist): Used for permeable driveways (like Resin or Permeable Paving). It has reduced "fines" (dust), leaving small gaps between the stones. This creates a strong platform that still allows rainwater to drain straight through it.

The Red Flag: If a builder uses crushed bricks or general building rubble instead of certified MOT stone, show them the door. Rubble contains voids that collapse over time.

4. Compaction is Key

You can have the best stone in the world, but if it is loose, it is useless. We install the sub-base in layers (not all at once), compacting each layer with heavy-duty vibrating plates or rollers. This knits the angular stones together, creating a friction-locked surface that won't shift when a 2-tonne electric SUV drives over it.

5. Edge Restraints (The Frame)

Imagine trying to stack pool balls on a table without a triangle rack. They roll away. Driveways work the same way. The edges are the weakest point. Before we lay the main driveway, we concrete in solid Edge Restraints (kerbs or edging blocks). This "frame" locks everything in place, preventing your beautiful block paving from spreading sideways and opening up gaps.

Summary: No Sinking, No Rutting

Have you ever seen a driveway with "tramlines"—two sunken ruts where the car wheels go? That is the sign of a bad sub-base.

At DBG Projects, we guarantee our work because we know what went into the ground. We don't cut corners on excavation, and we don't skimp on stone.

Want a driveway built to last? Invest in the engineering, not just the aesthetics. Contact us today for a quote that covers the full job, from the ground up.