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It’s Not Just "Outdoor Carpet": The Engineering Behind a Perfect Artificial Lawn

  • Writer: Gareth Twohey
    Gareth Twohey
  • Jan 27
  • 3 min read


Artificial grass has exploded in popularity across the UK. It promises a mud-free, mow-free, green garden all year round.


But we have all seen that lawn. You know the one—it looks wrinkled like a loose rug, it smells when the sun hits it, or it has puddles sitting on top days after a rainstorm.


These problems don't happen because of the grass itself; they happen because of what is underneath it.


At DBG Projects, we treat artificial grass installation as a construction project, not a gardening job. If you want a lawn that feels firm underfoot and drains perfectly for your pets and kids, here is the "DBG Standard" installation process you need to know about.


1. Excavation: Removing the Rot

The biggest mistake DIYers and "cheap" installers make is laying the new grass directly over the old turf. This is a disaster waiting to be happen. The old grass will die, rot, and shrink, causing your new lawn to sink and smell.

  • The DBG Way: We mechanically remove the existing turf and topsoil to a depth of around 75mm–100mm. We take everything out until we reach a stable base, removing organic matter that could decompose.


2. The Timber (or Composite) Frame

Artificial grass needs to be anchored down under tension to stop it wrinkling. You cannot just pin it into loose soil.

  • The DBG Way: We install a pressure-treated timber (or rot-proof composite) frame around the entire perimeter of the lawn area. This is concreted or staked securely into the ground. This gives us a solid "perimeter batten" to mechanically fix the grass to later, ensuring it stays tight and flat.


3. The Structural Sub-Base

Just like a driveway, your lawn needs a stone foundation.

  • The DBG Way: We install a layer of MOT Type 1 (crushed limestone or granite). We compact this with a vibrating plate whacker until it is rock hard. This ensures that when you walk, run, or place garden furniture on the grass, the ground doesn't dip.


4. The "Blinding" Layer (Granite Dust)

You can't lay grass on rough stones. You need a smooth, permeable surface.

  • The DBG Way: We top the Type 1 with a layer of Granite Dust (sometimes called Grano). Unlike sharp sand, which can move and wash away over time, granite dust compacts tightly but remains permeable. We screed this perfectly flat to remove any lumps or bumps.


5. The Membrane

We install a heavy-duty geotextile membrane. This serves two purposes:

  1. It stops weeds from pushing through.

  2. It prevents worms from coming up and disturbing the base.


6. Laying and Joining

This is where the artistry comes in. Artificial grass has a "pile direction" (the way the blades lean).

  • The DBG Way: We always lay the grass with the pile facing towards your house or main viewing area. This ensures the lawn looks lush and green rather than shiny. We join rolls using specialized joining tape and high-strength aquatic adhesive—never just cable ties or pegs!


Summary: Mud-Free, Stress-Free

A properly installed artificial lawn should last 15–20 years. It should drain water faster than real grass and provide a clean, safe play area for dogs and children 365 days a year.


We only use grasses made in the UK and Europe as they are superior far east grasses.


Tired of the mud? Don't settle for a rug thrown on the dirt. Contact DBG Projects for a quote on a professionally engineered artificial lawn.

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